imam problem, došla life i kontra su + i -, i ispustila stanica bijeli dim 
e sad vidim o kojem se elementu radi ali ga je ostalo premalo da mogu odrediti točne vrijednosti da naručim drugi pa ako mi može netko pomoći..znači ovaj žuti..
Ne brini ima lijeka
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1415356Repair Your Fried Turnigy/Flysky/Eurgle 9x Radio (aka Reverse Polarity and You)
Well everyone, after much help from the members of this board, I've finally managed to get my Turnigy 9x back fully functional after it's fateful brush with high-voltage death.
First off, DON'T PLUG THE BATTERY PACK IN BACKWARDS.
Of course, if you're reading this, you've likely already learned that, about 2 seconds too late.
When you introduce 11-ish volts going the wrong way, you'll most likely kill all 3 voltage regulators (VRs from here in) and 1 very small SMD capacitor (Cap hereafter).
Fortunately, there is hope! With a (4) parts, a decent soldering iron, and digital multimeter, and some patience, you can most likely get back in the air before too long.
I quick note about tools...
You don't need a ton of expensive gear to make this repair, but if you do have to go out and buy everything from scratch, it might be worth adding up the cost of the parts and tools and see if it's cheaper to just replace the radio. On the other hand, if you buy the stuff, you'll have it for the next time you want to fix or mod something, so you do the math.
You'll need:
(1) A decent soldering iron. Variable temp control is nice, but not critical. Just MAKE SURE that you don't use a high wattage iron, or you'll just do more damage.
The model I have is no longer available, but has been replaced by this model. I'm anything but an electronics expert, but I do end up soldering stuff fairly frequently, and I've been nothing but pleased with this model.
Within reason, get the smallest tip you can find. You'll be doing some SMD (surface-mount) soldering, and the smaller the tip the easier it will be to only heat the target part.
You don't need a fancy station, though. This will work or even this. Just try to get a fine tip for whatever iron you get. Radio Shack sells a basic one too, but get the lower power model.
While you're there, get some electronics solder and maybe some solder braid for cleaning up where you remove parts. Neither of these are expensive and will last you a long time.
(2) A pair of helping hands (or similar device) is almost a must. If you happen to live near a Harbor Freight Tools store, they have them pretty cheap. Without this, you'll find yourself 1 or 2 hands short at nearly every turn. It's not impossible without it, but it sure feels that way sometimes!
I have this version, which is larger, has a lighted magnifier and is more stable than the smaller model.
(3) The parts themselves.
For this, you'll have to pick your best source depending on where you live, but in my area Digi-Key is by far my best bet.
The following are the parts you're likely to need. I suggest getting a couple of each, because they're super cheap and you'll feel dumb if you have to place another order because you dropped the tiny SMD Cap or broke a leg off a VR.
1x This Cap (Part # 478-1682-1-ND)
1x This VR (Part # LM78L05ACZNS-ND)
1x This VR (Part # 296-11118-1-ND)
1x This VR (Part # NJM78M05FA-ND)
***Please Note: These are the parts I needed. I cannot guarantee that you'll need the exact same parts. I hear that there have been several revisions of the hardware used in the 9x radios. You are responsible for verifying that the parts you order are the correct ones.***
Okay, with that out of the way, let's talk about the actual repair.
In my case, when I plugged in the battery pack in "reverse polarity mode", (aka D'oh!) I heard a sickening *pop* and got a nasty burned radio smell and a wisp of magic smoke.
You may be wondering how it's possible to plug in the battery pack backwards when it's a keyed plug and only goes one way, right?
Well, Mr. Smarty, that's only true of you are using the horrible OEM battery holder. However, if you've replaced your "battery vampire" as I like to call it with a nice, small, efficient 2S or 3S LiPo pack, then it's REALLY easy to get it wrong, especially if you haven't messed with your radio in several months and forgot that polarity mattered, if only for a second.
Since then, I've replaced the JST connector on the pack with a custom cable I hacked together from an internal CD-Rom audio interface cable (if you have to ask what that is, you probably don't have one) and a female servo plug that I "modified" with my soldering iron. It ain't pretty, so I won't show it to you, but it's easy enough to make your own or just clip the plug off the OEM holder and solder that plug onto the leads of the LiPo pack. Again, be sure to get the polarity right, or you'll be doing this all over again very soon.
You can take 2 approaches to fixing your radio. You can (A) carefully test out each and every connection, trace paths, take hi-res photos of every part of the board to look for breaks, test everything for shorts, etc...
or (B) replace all 4 of the above mentioned parts for about $5 and see if it works. I call this the mechanic's approach, since that seems to be what my mechanic does whenever I bring him my car.
After you replace the parts, plug your pack in (the right way!) and power up the radio.
What happened?
If it works, REJOICE! Well, almost. You still have to test the Tx and verify that the module is binding and syncing up with the Rx.
If nothing happens (dead screen still), go back and check your solder connections, especially the cap and the small VR next to it on the main board. Those are jammed in there pretty good and it's easy to bridge a joint without noticing it.
If you heard another *POP*, put down the radio and go find another hobby, I just can't help you any more. LOL
In any case, this should get you pretty well along on repairing your fried/semi-fried 9x radio.
To get to the parts, you'll need to open the case. This is really easy, requiring you to remove the 6 Phillips-head screws from the back of the case.
Once the screws are out, carefully separate the 2 halves of the case, taking care not to snatch the cable that connects the two halves.
Open it enough to get to the connector, then unplug it from the main board. You'll probably have to rock it side to side to get it loose. Just be careful and use firm but gentle pressure and it will eventually unplug. A small flat blade screwdriver or other tool sometimes helps by lifting under the edge of the connector. Be careful not to pull on the wires too much or you'll have another repair job on your hands.
With that cable off, you can now separate the case into 2 parts.
Set the "back" part (with the 2.4Ghz module and battery tray) aside for now.
Most of what you will need to replace will be in "top" half, where the screen and sticks are.
This is what your main board will probably look like.
Note that in the picture, I've already removed all the connectors and unscrewed the board from the case. You'll need to do this also.
There are 9 screws holding the board down. 4 are silver, larger and at the outside 4 corners. The other 5 are gold, smaller and on the interior of the board. Remove them all.
Also take care when removing the 5 white cable connectors and EXTRA care when disconnecting the small flat ribbon cable at the top center of the board. This cable connects the main board to the LCD screen and is easy to damage. Use a small pick, screwdriver or knife point to carefully push the brown locking bar away from the board. You will be sliding the bar along the plane of the board, not lifting it up. Don't expect it to come off, just open it up enough to slip the flat cable out.
More to be added soon.....
I'll be adding photos and more data along the way as other suggest what is needed to fill this out into a proper repair tutorial.
If you want to follow the whole ordeal, with all the troubleshooting steps and what didn't work (which may be helpful if just replacing everything doesn't work or if you just don't like that approach), then start with post #4589 on this page.
I'd like to take this space to give special thanks to those who spent so much of their own time helping me work through the issues to get my 9x flying again.
In no particular order, they are:
GrootWitBass, jpparisy, export!, S_Mack, MoFl, and others who I've forgotten at the moment.
Cheers!
-Mike
Topic: Turnigy 9X – info, pitanja i odgovori [FAQ] (Read 243112 times)
previous topic - next topic